Revealed Rome

The Week of Culture in Rome, for the NY Times

If you haven't done so already, get thee to one of Italy's many state-run museums, archaeological sites, and palaces, most of which are free right now for the Settimana della Cultura! Here in Rome, that means you can get into prize-worthy sites like the Palazzo Massimo (with its ancient Roman frescoes and other goodies, above) for free. The event ends April 22. For more, check out my piece on the Week of Culture over at the New York Times.

Five Reasons I'm Loving Rome Right Now

Even after living here for almost three years, I still have days and moments—lots of them—where this city continues to blow my mind.

Here, five reasons I'm loving Rome right now.

I once had a Cambridge professor call wisteria "garish." He'd be appalled at the sight of Rome these days. Wisteria, wisteria everywhere... even here, in the Roman forum.

A cupcake from Made Lab, a new-ish American-style-ish bakery on Via dei Coronari. I'm obviously a sucker for cupcakes, so discovering these guys this week was a thrill. Also, the cupcakes were damn good.

The Colosseum Underground Reopens (Again)

The hypogeum of the Colosseum reopens this Saturday, April 7th. After being closed for nearly six months due to flooding, it's practically an Easter miracle!

(And yes, officials announced today that it will be open in two days. Welcome to Rome).

If you didn't even know that the Colosseum underground was closed, I don't blame you. Lots of tour operators were still selling the underground as if it was. But rest assured: It was.

For more on the Colosseum underground, check out my previous posts. This post looks at the three major ways you can visit the Colosseum underground (all are tours). I also have a guide to how to book the Colosseum underground and a post highlighting what the Colosseum underground is really like.

Happy underground-ing, and Buona Pasqua!

Rome's Appian Way: The Perfect Springtime Stroll

What better way to celebrate spring—and Easter (you know, "quo vadis" and all that) —than a stroll on the ancient Appian Way?

The Appian Way (or, to Italians, Via Appia) was built all the way back in 312 B.C. And it was crucial. The first road linking farther-flung parts of the Roman empire with the capital, it first ran to Capua, just north of Naples; since it allowed Romans to transport soldiers and supplies, the Via Appia proved integral to the Romans conquering the Samnites of southern Italy. In 264 B.C., the Romans extended the road all the way to Brindisi, in modern-day Puglia.

That's the context. The really cool part?

You can still walk on the Via Appia Antica today. On stones ancient Romans would have walked on.

Not to mention that the Appian Way boasts ancient catacombs, tombs, mausoleums, and even fragments of villas that once would have lined this all-important entrance to the city—a way for Romans to flaunt their wealth and status. 

Rome's Best Shopping Streets: Via del Boschetto

Looking for the best shopping in Rome? Particularly if you're in search of one-of-a-kind (and handmade! and stylish!) clothing and jewelry, beeline to Via del Boschetto, located an easy walk from Via Nazionale, the Roman forum, or the Colosseum.

In the heart of Rione Monti, one of Rome's most ancient and hip neighborhoods, Via del Boschetto is packed with top-notch boutiques, artisans and ateliers, selling everything from hip clothing to handcrafted jewelry to vintage bags. The biggest surprise? At many of the stores, the pricetags are on par with what you'd find at a chain store—yet another reason to shop artisanal in Rome.

And remember: Over the next few months, I'm going to be focusing more on Rome's unique stores, including with posts on some of my other favorite shopping streets in Rome, so stay tuned. 

Now, let's go shopping...

Tina Sondergaard, Via del Boschetto 1/D: The clothes at this tiny shop, all designed by Danish import Sondergaard (above), are hand-stitched and top-quality. The fabrics come from just outside Florence. Along with her whimsical-but-classy pieces, Sondergaard will create items by request—she’s made everything from costumes to wedding dresses in the past. But even her bespoke work won’t break the bank: She recently custom-made a cocktail dress for €200. Tel: +39 3343850799.

Quitting that Nasty Chain-Shopping Habit... in Rome

I've set a new goal: For the next year, when shopping for clothing or accessories in Rome, I'm only buying handmade or preworn. 

And I'll be sharing what I discover with you. That means that, over the next few months, I'm going to be writing about artisanal stores around Rome—including what streets to hit up for Rome's best (unique, great-value, and no-chain) shopping, and blog posts on some of my favorite artisans.

If this sounds niche, or like a topic only for those of us who live in Rome, I don't mean it to be. Travelers to Rome often ask me what they should buy as a souvenir or gift; I can't think of a more priceless memento than, say, a handmade leather passport holder, or a handcrafted ring reminiscent of ancient Rome. Even if it costs more than a made-in-China "Rome, Italy" T-shirt, it'll last longer, feel more special, and bring you into contact with a Roman artisan, perhaps even letting you see how it was made. (Plus, these handcrafted goods aren't always pricier than the factory-made stuff. But more on that later).

Still curious why I've made the decision to avoid chain store shopping in Rome?

Here's why.

I want to support Rome's artisans—not the stores I can see in Any Other City, U.S.A./Canada/Europe

One of my favorite things about Rome is its artisans (above: Anna Preziosi at Silice, an artisanal glassmaker). I love seeing sewing machines in clothing shops. I love that there are still picture-frame makers and basket weavers here. It adds a sense of diversity within, and uniqueness to, Rome that simply wouldn't exist if H&M and Zara replaced every atelier and Pier One took over every picture-frame shop. It makes walking around—and shopping—fun.

Rome's Most Roman Restaurant... But Forget the Checkered Tablecloths: Fraschetteria Brunetti

When I first walked into Fraschetteria Brunetti*, a stone's throw from Piazza del Popolo, I thought all of my senses were under assault.

If the bright-red walls and yellow tablecloths weren't enough, they were covered in notes and hand-drawn pictures left by particularly appreciative (or drunk) clientele. Tables were jammed so closely together, and so packed—with people who kept jumping up and down to go out for smoke breaks or to call friends on their telefonini—that elbow-room wasn't so much a commodity as something nobody had ever heard of, never mind required.

And then there was the noise. Want to have a conversation with your dining companion? Nah. Between the blaring pop and the equally-loud diners, you might as well be whispering at a discoteca.

If all of that sounds annoying... it was.

It was also completely, quintessentially—and, yes, endearingly—Roman.

Need Advice on Your Trip to Rome and Italy? Now Available for One-on-One Chats

I love sharing my insider's tips for traveling to Rome and Italy, from the most fascinating sites to most pernicious scams, best day trips to top ways to save money. And, as well as publishing on my blog, I have been—and will always—be happy to respond to readers' emails with even more tips and advice.

But I can sometimes get behind on those emails. And, at the same time, I know that many readers would much rather just sit down and talk with me, not have to type everything out. Besides: If you talk as fast as I do (hello, East Coast upbringing), you can cover a lot more territory in an hour chatting than an hour writing.

So, starting now, I'm offering one-on-one consulting sessions on travel to Rome and Italy. (You can book now; sessions themselves will start on March 20). For sessions that take place between March 20 and April 20, I'm providing a 40% discount on my normal price.

It's your chance to pick my brain on, well, everything Italy-related. For example, I can tell you:

• where to eat: why you should never count on Tripadvisor or a guidebook to find the best and most authentic spots, what websites I use to find new restaurants in Italy, my favorite restaurants in Rome and elsewhere, and general rules of thumb for how to avoid touristy spots
• where to stay: why some of Italy's "best hotels" don't really merit their €250-and-up price tags, how to find the best-value accommodation in Italy, my favorite places to stay in Rome and elsewhere, how to use and what to know about apartment rental websites, and the best-kept secret in rewarding budget accommodation in Italy
• how to get off the beaten path: the most rewarding sites in Rome, and the most rewarding towns and regions in Italy, that hardly anyone knows about
• how not to get ripped off: when to be on your guard in Italy, how to tell if your restaurant bill is right or not, and how to deal with awkward situations where you think you've been overcharged
• how to get around: why you shouldn't necessarily rent a car and drive around Italy, what the alternatives are, and the cheapest way to get around Rome on public transport (no, it's not the RomaPass!)

Intrigued? Find out more information here.

And don't worry: I'm still writing, still blogging, and still answering those emails. Just think of this as just one more trip-planning option in your arsenal!

How to Travel Green in Rome

Don't let the moniker "Eternal City" fool you: Rome is changing, and not always for the better. Chain stores are replacing artisans' shops, restaurants are cutting costs by buying low-quality, frozen ingredients shipped in from afar, and pollution is eating away, literally, at ancient monuments and Renaissance palazzos.

Luckily, even as a temporary traveler to Rome, there's something you can do about it. Actually, a few things. Bonus: These tips—from staying at a boutique B&B instead of a cookie-cutter, corporate hotel, to eating the fresh, local food that Rome is known for—will make your trip more rewarding and fun, too. I promise.

Check out my tips at my guest post over at Traveling Greener's Rome Green Guide.

The Most Romantic Hotels in Rome

Planning a honeymoon in Rome... or simply looking for a romantic break? Here's my list of the eight of the most romantic Rome hotels!

Of course, one person's amore-inspiring room is another person's crazy-maker. So let's break it down. If your idea of romance means....

Knights, turrets and damsels:

Then stay at: Hotel Campo de Fiori (above and top left). Located in a Renaissance-era palazzo right on Campo de Fiori (luckily, given the piazza's popularity with late-night carousers, all the windows are fully soundproofed), the boutique hotel's 23 rooms come with the kinds of details that'll make you feel like you've fallen into a fairytale—think velvet headboards, elaborate tapestries, wood-beamed ceilings, crystal chandeliers, and ornate gilt frames, even for the flat-screened televisions. As with most Rome hotel rooms, the standard rooms aren't particularly spacious, and they tend to be on the dim side. But that's all part of the Olde Worlde romance. Doubles start at €150 a night. Via del Biscione, 6. +39 0668806865. 

 

Or: Hotel Manfredi Suite in Rome (above).  This 2-year-old hotel hides in an 18^th-century palazzo on artsy Via Margutta. Rooms aren’t big (they start at 140 square feet), but with their deep colors, ornate wallpaper, and elaborate gold frames, they still manage to feel nearly regal. For more space, opt for a deluxe, which starts at 215 square feet—or live like a king in a 430-square-foot junior suite. Doubles start at €150 a night. Via Margutta, 61. +39 063207676.

Sexy times:

Then stay at: Spagna Royal Suite.  This brand-new boutique hotel has details so sensuous, they'd be ridiculous—if they weren't so cool. Think unusual features like an in-room steam sauna or mosaic Jacuzzi, not to mention lots of play with textures and lighting, with everything from leather to snakeskin to gold gilt showing up on the walls. Rooms start at €200 a night. Via Mario de’ Fiori, 3. +39 0669923793.